In April 2015 Nepal suffered a massive earthquake killing almost 9000 people, injuring thousands more and destroying homes and centuries-old buildings and heritage sites. A year and a half later the evidence in Kathmandu is still there although life in general seems to have returned to normal. Having had a long association with the country I figured the best way to help Nepal was to visit.
In November 2016, fotoVUE director Stuart Holmes organised a month-long expedition for friends to attempt a previously unclimbed peak in the shadow of the third highest mountain in the world.
• click on an image to get a slide show of photographs •
Nangmari II Expedition
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A rare bit of flat ground in the upper part of the Tamur Valley below Yangma Village. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 214mm, ISO 100, 1/800 sec at f/5. © Stuart Holmes.
There are two seasons for trekking and climbing in Nepal: pre and post monsoon; spring and autumn. The most reliable for weather and clear skies is usually the autumn season and this autumn was no exception. With a group of six friends we visited the north east of the country with a view to climbing a previously un-climbed 6209m peak close to the Tibetan border and in the shadow of the world’s third highest mountain, Kanchenjunga.
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There is loads of stuff to photograph along the trails. Fern detail. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 244mm, ISO 100, 1/500 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
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Marigolds are commonly grown alongside crops to keep pests away apparently. A young girl makes a necklace from the petals. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 200mm, ISO 100, 1/400 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
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Graphic image of house detail. Houses and gardens/small holdings are generally very well maintained. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 96mm, ISO 100, 1/320 sec at f/11. © Stuart Holmes.
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A very common sight strung between trees or bushes. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 300mm, ISO 100, 1/250 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
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Beautiful small holding typical of the lower valleys. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/320 sec at f/6.3. © Stuart Holmes.
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A local lady harvesting millet. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 300mm, ISO 100, 1/250 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
Our trek started in Taplejung in the middle hills, an area characterised by steep-sided river valleys, rice and millet cultivated terraces, wildlife-rich forests and idyllic thatched farmsteads. In the lower hills the air is warm and scented with flowers, huge webs with colourful spiders span the gaps between trees, water buffalo gaze upwards like they are waiting for something, young children look after the very young whilst the women work in the fields and the men do some very important hanging about.
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Some of our porters passing below one of many waterfalls. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 24mm, ISO 400, 1/200 sec at f/4, © Stuart Holmes.
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One of many river crossings, this time on a cantilever bridge. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 35mm, ISO 200, 1/1250 sec at f/4. © Stuart Holmes.
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The Tamur River tumbles steeply down through autumnal colours and receeding ridges. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 55mm, ISO 100, 1/320 sec at f/9. © Stuart Holmes.
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One of the many waterfalls tumbling down the steep sides of the Tamur Valley. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 88mm, ISO 500, 1/100 sec at f/4. © Stuart Holmes.
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One of many bridges we crossed – this is without doubt the dodgiest. Canon 5D MkIII, 17-40mm at 17mm, ISO 200, 1/320 sec at f/7.1. © Stuart Holmes.
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Hand held shot with small aperture of butterfly. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 300mm, ISO 200, 1/60 sec at f/14. © Stuart Holmes.
As you get higher in altitude the vegetation and scenery changes. The forested valley sides are too steep for agriculture but the valley bottoms widen as ‘v’ shaped river valleys turn into the ‘u’ shaped formerly glacier-filled valleys. Snowy peaks appear at the heads of valleys, waterfalls cascade down the slopes and we see our first yak, a definite sign that it is getting colder. Mountain people are predominantly Buddhist compared to the mainly Hindu lowlanders and there are regular reminders in the colourful prayer flags and carved Mani stones.
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Prayer flags on a small hilltop temple. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/800 sec at f/4. © Stuart Holmes.
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Carved prayer stones called mani stones, often many of these making up a mani wall. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 214mm, ISO 100, 1/400 sec at f/6.3. © Stuart Holmes.
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The sun’s final rays hitting the tops of the mountains at Yangma. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 221mm, ISO 100, 1/100 sec at f/5. © Stuart Holmes.
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Prayer flags and rooftops at Yangma Village. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 207mm, ISO 100, 1/60 sec at f/10. © Stuart Holmes.
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Buddhist carved mani stones with the impressive north face of Jannu behind. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 32mm, ISO 100, 1/500 sec at f/6.3. © Stuart Holmes.
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Prayer flags flutter on top of a stupa with snowy peaks above. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 182mm, ISO 100, 1/320 sec at f/9. © Stuart Holmes.
Our climbing objective was a remote peak in a side valley which required setting up a base camp and then one higher camp. Our progress was dictated by the altitude, if we went up too quickly there is a risk of altitude sickness which is unpleasant at best and deadly at worst. Our top camp was at an altitude of 5500m (18,050ft) where the air was incredibly clear and the night time celestial views amazing – I like to think of my tent as a five-thousand star hotel. The down side to sunset was that the temperature plummets from warm in the sun to instantly sub-zero.
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Lammergeier fly by! Also called the bearded vulture for obvious reasons. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 300mm, ISO 200, 1/1250 sec at f/5.6, panning shot using AI Servo. © Stuart Holmes.
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Himalaya glow on the peaks at sunset, taken from Yangma Village. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 244mm, ISO 100, 1/100 sec at f/5.6, hand held. © Stuart Holmes.
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The 5000 star hotel at Base Camp, 4900m. Canon 5D MkIII, 17-40mm at 17mm, ISO 4000, 30 sec at f/4.5, tripod. © Stuart Holmes.
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We had magnificent views from our high camp at 5500m. Once the sun went behind the mountains it turned instantly icy cold. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/100 sec at f/9. © Stuart Holmes.
After a 3am start we climbed through the night and managed to make it to within 50m of the summit before dangerous snow conditions forced our retreat. Needless to say the views were truly astounding; snowy peaks all around with some of the highest mountains on the planet in plain view: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu and so many more.
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Lucy climbs up towards our high point with Nangmari I (6500m) behind. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/1000 sec at f/7.1. © Stuart Holmes.
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Our shadows as we look north from our high point at 6150m, out over Tibet. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 24mm, ISO 100, 1/800 sec at f/6.3. © Stuart Holmes.
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Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu, the world’s first, fourth, fifth and sixth highest mountains. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 105mm, ISO 100, 1/1000 sec at f/7.1. © Stuart Holmes.
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On the descent from Nangmari II. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 28mm, ISO 100, 1/250 sec at f/10. © Stuart Holmes.
Rather than retracing our original route up our guides took us on a yak trail over three high and remote passes linking villages in adjacent valleys. This turned out to be a spectacular, wildly remote and strenuous route on tiny trails before hitting the main Kanchenjunga Valley and semi-civilisation once again. On arrival in the village of Ghunsa we had our first proper wash (bucket shower) in three weeks.
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Our colourful toilet tent at Yangma. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 45mm, ISO 100, 1/640 sec at f/4.5. © Stuart Holmes.
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Prayer flags flutter on top of a pass – issuing the prayers out to the world with the wind. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 67mm, ISO 100, 1/500 sec at f/7.1. © Stuart Holmes.
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A calm lake provides superb reflections of a tumbling glacier – on the passes between Yangma Village and Ghunsa. Canon 5D MkIII, 24-105mm at 35mm, ISO 100, 1/200 sec at f/9. © Stuart Holmes.
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Night shot of our camp whilst crossing the passes. Canon 5D MkIII, 17-40mm at 17mm, ISO 3200, 30 sec at f/4, camera on rock. © Stuart Holmes.
Back in Kathmandu, in between trying to replace our depleted reserves and satisfy our taste buds in the wide range of excellent restaurants, we did find time to wander around the maze of streets and to visit a couple of temples. There is no shortage of photographic interest in town, here modern life carries on in a seemingly chaotic way right amongst historic sites that in more developed countries would be cordoned off and labelled ‘ancient monument – tourist attraction.’ The past is very much part of the present.
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Monkey at the Monkey temple eating marigolds. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 236mm, ISO 200, 1/640 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
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Lots of photography potential at the Monkey Temple. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 108mm, ISO 200, 1/1250 sec at f/4.5. © Stuart Holmes.
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Ceremonial candles and incense sticks at the Monkey Temple. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 300mm, ISO 200, 1/1000 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
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Bottom Inspector. Monkeys grooming at Swayambunath, Kathmandu. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 166mm, ISO 200, 1/640 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
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A monkey on the roof at Swayambunath Monkey Temple, Kathmandu. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 95mm, ISO 200, 1/4000 sec at f/5.6. © Stuart Holmes.
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Kathmandu Colour at Pashupatinath Hindu temple. Canon 5D MkIII, 70-300mm at 140mm, ISO 100, 1/250 sec at f/8. © Stuart Holmes.
Planning A Trip
There are many UK-based trekking companies that run exciting treks of all standards of difficulty to the mountains of Nepal. You could also get a flight to Kathmandu and visit one of the many travel offices in the town to arrange a trek on the spot. You could save money by doing this but you don’t really know what you are getting. The areas of both Everest and Annapurna have lots of accommodation meaning it is possible to go it alone; just trek a far as you like, show up at a ‘tea house’ and get a bed and food. To go anywhere off the beaten track you will need to be self sufficient which means hiring a fully equipped team of porters, guides and cook crew. Regardless of how or where you decide to go, the mountains and people of Nepal will not disappoint.
Suggested trekking companies:
UK – www.keadventure.com
NEPAL – www.himalayanguides.com